By Mark Baratelli
Hillstone Restaurant (menu | website) at 215 S. Orlando Avenue, Winter Park, FL 32789 MAP) invited five media people to its hidden enclave for a private lunch a few days ago. Its like a magical food fairyland tucked away from the hideousness of the (current state of) Orlando Avenue.
In the front parking lot, shady trees hide the restaurant. The structure is modern and well-designed. But its main charm is in its unwillingness for flash and glitz. Its like a hot guy who doesn't know he's hot. It makes you want him more. And after lunch, I wanted more of this hot man-restaurant.
The decor inside teeters like a fat kid on a see saw between modern understated eatery and 1980s throwback steakhouse. It felt dangerous. The interior almost has reverence for 1980s dark colors and surfaces. Not a bad thing in this case. I liked the lovely open kitchen and the backyard outdoor lakefront seating area. And the bathrooms deserve applause. At least the men's does.
The Chef defends their very basic menu with the "we do a few things, but we do them very well" argument, and I agree. Everything was done very well. It was top quality throughout the lunch. There's not much you can say bad about this place.
Head Chef Dennis Gill
Artichoke
Kale salad
Whole Grain Barley Salad
Warm Five-Nut Brownie
Apple Walnut Cobbler
Key Lime Pie
